Shinsekai (New World), in Osaka, was developed at the turn of the last century as an amusement and restaurant area which drew huge crowds, and then fell into disrepute after the war. It is said to be one of Japan’s most dangerous neighbourhoods, with prostitution and homelessness rife, and while it is a bit down and dirty, in daylight hours at least, it seemed quite safe to me. The main attraction is Jan-Jan Yokocho Street, packed to the gills with gaudy restaurants, dingy bars, dodgy cinemas, and deafening Pachinko Parlours.
The specialty food here is Kushi-katsu – any number of meats, seafood, and vegetables on a stick, battered, crumbed and deep-fried. Some places only serve kushi-katsu, whilst other huge, garish emporiums of food seem to serve almost everything.
I turned down an alley, and spotted a place which only had kushi-katsu, looked quite nice, and entered, to be greeted in that fantastic Japanese manner, with every staff member bellowing “Irrashiamase!” (Welcome). Shown to a seat at the bar, there was a tense moment when I said the Japanese menu would be OK, and the smiling waiter, looking concerned brought an English menu as well, just to be on the safe side. Deep fried sticks of deliciousness, ordered, beer ordered, and all was well. One of the chefs asked me how long I had been in Japan, and I stupidly just said three. He said, “three years?” Oh no, no, no!!! Three days!!! He was politely gobsmacked by this, and asked if I meant three months. Then the usual polite banter about how well I speak Japanese (too polite on this subject), where was I from, etc. We were having a good old chat, whilst his colleague was racing around like a frying fiend in the background, and my new chum seemed quite happy to keep chatting. I told him how much I loved Japanese food, and we talked about Australian food, and how he finds koalas terrifying. Cute, but terrifying – those claws!!! I didn’t dare mention crocodiles, snakes, jellyfish or spiders, because he said he wants to go to Australia one day. Australia, Canada, or Italy are his top three, and I didn’t want to put us out of the running with animals scarier than koalas! My sticks were done, and he decided it was time to do some work, but he kept checking to see if I was enjoying everything. Bless.
There’s a communal pot of dipping sauce, so one dip, and you’re good to start eating. Double dip here and I’m pretty sure the consequences wouldn’t be good. Sated by some deep-fried goodness, my new friend set down a wee plate of Tamagoyaki (rolled omelette) for me to try. How nice!
After I gave him an enthusiastic thumbs up, and an “Oishii” for his Tamagoyaki present, he sidled over with this:
Domo arigato! I really liked that! But wait, there’s one more treat in store:
Already full to bursting, I waited a few minutes, because this one came with an “It’s really hot” warning, and then summoned the energy to shove one more deep-fried morsel into my mouth. It was cheese! Tasted like La Vache Qui Rit cheese, you know, those little foil wrapped triangles, which is fine by me. Thanks Mr Kushi-katsu. You rock! Steer clear of those scary koalas, and you’d have a great time in Australia!
I bowed to my new friend, said a heartfelt thank you, and rolled out, full and happy with a cheery “Mata ne” (see you later) following me out the door.
For a dodgy neighbourhood, it sure is friendly! I’ll be back.